A bare concrete garage floor will quickly absorb oil, brake fluid, fuel, or cleaning agents, leading to staining, dusting, and long-term surface damage. To protect the slab and make cleaning easier, it needs a high-performance coating that resists both chemical attack and mechanical wear. This guide explains how to properly coat a concrete garage floor to make it resistant to oil and chemicals, using proven surface prep and commercial-grade resins.
Use an industrial degreaser to remove all oils, greases, and fluid residue. For heavy staining, scrub the area with a rotary floor machine or stiff bristle pad. Repeat the process as needed until no residue lifts when water is applied. Rinse thoroughly and allow the surface to dry. Any oil left in the pores will cause delamination or bubbling under the coating.
Concrete must be open-textured and clean before any coating is applied. Use diamond grinding or shot blasting to expose the surface and remove all laitance, sealers, or past contamination. The goal is to achieve a concrete surface profile of at least CSP-2 or CSP-3. Vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove all dust. Never coat a smooth, unprofiled slab.
Use epoxy repair mortar or crack filler to restore damaged areas. Cut out soft or weak edges with a grinder before filling. For control joints, use a flexible joint filler compatible with the coating system. Let all repair products fully cure before priming. Unfilled cracks or cold joints will print through the coating and create weak points in oil-exposed zones.
Priming improves bond strength and helps seal the surface against residual porosity. Use a low-viscosity epoxy primer applied by roller or squeegee. Ensure full, even coverage with no missed areas or puddles. Allow the primer to cure fully, usually between 12 and 24 hours depending on conditions. If needed, lightly sand before applying the topcoat to ensure intercoat adhesion.
Use a high-solids epoxy or polyurethane floor coating rated for oil and chemical resistance. Mix components thoroughly and apply using a notched squeegee followed by back-rolling. Maintain consistent coverage rates as specified in the technical data sheet. For garage floors, 300 to 500 microns of dry film is typical. Allow full cure before exposing to vehicles or chemical spills.
While epoxy and polyurethane resist chemicals, they can become slippery under oil or water. Add anti-slip aggregate to the final coat if the garage sees wet vehicle entry or mechanical work. Broadcast into the wet topcoat and roll over lightly to embed. Choose a grit size that balances slip resistance and cleanability for your application.
Most epoxy and polyurethane systems reach full cure within 5 to 7 days. Do not park vehicles or spill chemicals until this time has passed, even if the surface is dry to touch. Premature exposure can soften the film or cause hot tyre pickup. Keep the garage ventilated during curing to avoid solvent entrapment or surface hazing.
Use neutral pH cleaners designed for coated floors. Avoid solvent-based degreasers unless approved by the manufacturer. Inspect the coating annually for wear, especially in wheel paths or under workbenches. Recoat worn areas as needed. If the system was installed properly, only surface touch-ups should be required every 3 to 5 years under normal use.
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