Over time, even the best concrete overlays can show wear — from surface erosion, staining, traffic damage, or weathering. But you don't always need to rip it up and start again. If the base layer is still sound, you can often re-coat directly over it, restoring strength, appearance, and protection. In this guide, we’ll show you exactly how to re-coat a worn concrete overlay step-by-step.
Before recoating, assess the current overlay carefully. Check for deep cracks, delamination, hollow spots, severe erosion, or major surface movement. If the overlay is structurally compromised, recoating won't fix it — removal and full replacement may be needed. However, if the surface is mostly sound with cosmetic or shallow defects, a re-coat is often ideal. Map out any isolated repairs needed before proceeding.
Patch cracks, pits, spalls, and gouges with appropriate repair materials designed for overlay systems. Grind or feather out surrounding areas to blend repairs smoothly. If cracks are dynamic (still moving), consider installing flexible joint fillers to prevent reflective cracking through the new overlay. Repairs must be fully cured and blended level before recoating for the best finish results.
Proper surface prep is critical. Lightly grind or shot blast the old overlay to remove dirt, sealers, laitance, or contaminants. Create a CSP 2–3 surface profile — light to medium roughness — to maximise mechanical bond. Vacuum thoroughly after grinding to eliminate dust. If the surface is extremely dense or glossy, additional roughening (heavier grinding or chemical etching) may be required to ensure recoat adhesion.
Some resurfacing systems require the use of a bonding primer, epoxy basecoat, or slurry bond coat before applying a new overlay layer. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the product you plan to use. Primers improve adhesion and reduce the risk of delamination later. Apply primer uniformly, avoid ponding, and allow appropriate cure time before proceeding with the fresh overlay installation.
Mix fresh overlay material exactly according to the manufacturer's instructions. Maintain proper water ratios, mix thoroughly to eliminate lumps, and avoid introducing excess air. Apply the new resurfacing layer evenly across the prepared surface using trowels, squeegees, or gauge rakes depending on thickness requirements. Maintain consistent depth — thin areas are prone to shrinkage and failure during curing.
Depending on your intended finish, you can leave the overlay smooth, broom it for slip resistance, stamp it for decorative effect, or lightly trowel texture it. Timing is crucial — finishing must occur while the material is still workable but firm enough to hold impressions. Work methodically across the floor, keeping wet edges live to avoid cold joints or visible seams between sections.
After finishing, protect the slab from rapid drying, temperature swings, rain, and traffic. Follow your resurfacer’s curing guidelines precisely — most overlays require at least 24–72 hours of protection before sealing or regular use. Rushing curing leads to shrinkage cracks, dusting, and delamination. Only after proper curing should sealing, colouring, or coating be completed for long-term performance.
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