Epoxy coatings are widely used to protect and enhance concrete floors in garages, warehouses, workshops, and commercial spaces. When applied correctly, they resist abrasion, chemicals, oils, and heavy traffic, but success depends on thorough prep, accurate mixing, and proper application. Mistakes with moisture, surface prep, or curing can lead to failures like delamination or bubbling. This guide explains exactly how to use an epoxy coating over concrete floors, step-by-step.
Concrete must be fully cured and moisture levels must be low before epoxy is applied. Wait a minimum of 28 days after pouring, longer in damp conditions. Use a moisture meter to confirm the surface is below the manufacturer's threshold, typically less than 4% by weight or under 75% RH. Applying epoxy to a damp floor will cause bubbling, delamination, or poor adhesion. Never rely on visual dryness alone.
The slab must be clean, open-textured, and free of all contaminants. Use diamond grinding or shot blasting to achieve the required surface profile (CSP 2–3 is typical for epoxy). Remove any laitance, curing agents, paints, or dust. The goal is to create a rough, clean surface for mechanical bonding. Vacuum thoroughly and check for any residual dust. Do not acid etch, it leaves residue and can interfere with adhesion.
Fill any cracks, expansion joints, or damaged areas using an epoxy-compatible filler or patching mortar. For hairline cracks, use a low-viscosity epoxy resin. Larger defects may need a fast-set mortar or joint compound, depending on traffic loads. All repairs should be flush with the surface and fully cured before coating. Skipping this step risks visible defects, hollow patches, or early coating failure.
Use an epoxy primer to improve bond strength and control outgassing. Apply using a roller or squeegee, following the specified spread rate (usually 0.2–0.3 L/m²). The primer helps the topcoat flow evenly and bond deeper into the slab. Let it cure fully, usually 12 to 24 hours, before applying the main layer. In some systems, quartz or anti-slip media can be broadcast into the primer coat.
Epoxy is a two-part system (resin and hardener) that must be mixed in the correct ratio. Use a slow-speed mechanical stirrer and mix only what can be applied within the pot life, usually 20 to 40 minutes. Always scrape the sides and bottom of the container to avoid unmixed material. Never estimate or alter mix ratios. Poor mixing leads to soft spots, uneven curing, or surface tack.
Pour the mixed epoxy onto the floor in ribbons and spread using a notched squeegee or trowel. Back-roll with a short-pile epoxy roller to level the film. Work in sections and maintain a wet edge to avoid lap marks. Epoxy should be applied at the specified thickness, usually between 300 and 600 microns depending on use. Avoid re-rolling partially cured areas, as this creates roller marks and uneven texture.
If a non-slip finish is required, broadcast silica sand or aluminium oxide into the wet epoxy immediately after rolling. Use a full rejection technique to cover the entire surface. Once cured, remove excess media and apply a sealing coat to lock it in. This creates a durable anti-slip surface suitable for wet zones, ramps, or commercial kitchens. Choose the aggregate size based on the required slip resistance.
Curing time depends on product type, temperature, and humidity. Allow 12 to 24 hours for light foot traffic and up to 7 days for full mechanical and chemical resistance. Avoid dragging equipment, placing heavy loads, or exposing the surface to water or cleaning agents during this time. Post-cure inspections should check for blush, surface tack, and uniformity. If applying a second coat, do so within the recoat window specified in the technical sheet.
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